Immediately upon arrival into a foreign country, a humble
girl from the über courteous Midwest cannot help but recognize the sudden
disappearance of personal space. Accustomed to the awkward 4-way stop scenario,
where drivers practically beg their peers to proceed into the intersection
before they do so, I did not find the bag carts charging at me particularly
welcoming. Though population density of Paris, France does come near that of
Dhaka, Bangladesh, I found that a year separated from Bangladeshi culture
helped me to appreciate the arms-length of personal space found in America.
| High speed train |
That
being said, I had previously enjoyed adapting to thick cities teeming with
people. In Bangladesh, I gained a rush from aggressively storming by pedestrians
without saying excuse me – it almost felt rebellious. I expect France’s country
side will not have the same rush of the Charles De-Gaulle Airport, a hub of
enthusiastic (or rather dumfounded) tourists and super-charged Parisians.
Our
first stop in France was Le Mans, home of the famous car racing track. The
track hosts a very well known 24-hour endurance race in which teams of three
drive their cars as quickly as possible to try and cover as much ground as
possible without their cars breaking down. Tomorrow we would watch the
qualifying race for the 24-hour endurance race which would take place on
Saturday, June 22.
After
three hours of loitering in the airport train station, we finally boarded the
SNFA rail from Paris to Le Mans. The scenery resembled that of the Minnesota
countryside. Once we started approaching more populated areas, the quaint
architecture differentiated itself from that found in Midwestern grasslands and
farm towns. About two hours later, we knew our stop had approached, as Le Mans
was the most populous city in miles. I looked forward to diving into the sea of
pale yellow, orange, and crème colored homes.
| A view from our hotel room window in Le Mans |
When
we hopped in our cab, all we could think was how happy we were to not be
driving. The winding cobblestone roads and foreign road signs gave us little
ability to navigate the roads. Upon sighting a spectacular cathedral, our cab
driver notified us we had arrived at our hotel, just across the street. Nestled
in a square at the heart of the “old town,” out hotel screamed quintessential
quaint French hotel. We rolled our suitcases across the hotel restaurant
terrace and into the retired convent. Because of my step dad’s bum knee, which
he discovered briefly before embarking on this trip, we stared dauntingly at
the narrow spiral staircase, of which we would have to scale three flights.
Communicating with the staff proved challenging, as none of us speak a
substantial amount of French (only knowing merci beaucoup and oui).
Knowing
we needed to fight our jet lag, we headed out on the Old Town to do some
touring, and our first stop was the Cathédrale St-Julien du Mans. This immense
structure began constructionearly in the last millennium, about 1045. Construction continued for about four centuries, as religious strife and age kept the church from standing tall. I found the detailed stained glass the most impressive. I particularly enjoyed the room with the brightly painted walls and ceilings.
| My favorite part of Cathédrale St-Julien |
| The adorable "Penthouse Suite" |
Like
any city my mother and I travel to, we have to mosey for a bit to gain our
bearings of the city. While my step dad rested his jet lag, my mom and I
daydreamed through the picturesque cobblestone streets, admiring the old
architecture, smelling the opening kitchens, and peering through boutique
windows. To try and keep ourselves awake, we stopped for some tea at a tea shop
absorbed the fantastic artwork surrounding us, including vibrant paintings and
classic ceramic tea sets. Our Asian-French waitress whose daughter looked like
a porcelain doll somehow convinced us to split a “small cookie” with our
beverages. I began to realize that refusing food in France would become
impossible, and I would need to adopt an attitude like Elizabeth Gilbert, the
author of Eat, Pray, Love, while she
lives in Rome for four months.
| The dark cave is the shower. |
Because of the proximity to our hotel and casual vibe, we decided to dine at Le Verre Tige, which advertised itself as a wine bar in English. Deciding whether to drink sparkling or tap water, I asked our waiter if the tap water in Le Mans was good. He responded, “I don’t know. I don’t drink water.” And, why would a Frenchman who has access to the finest wines in the world? Over a bottle of rosé, I enjoyed my waiter’s creation (a very fancy very savory open faced grilled cheese sandwich with tomato sauce and greens) and an apple tarte tatin (the French’s version of apple pie, a nonnegotiable at any restaurant). Stuffed to the brim, we went on a short post-dinner walk to awake from our food-induced coma. Without any trouble, I cuddled into my cot, which I had tucked into the inlet surrounding the window, and drifted off into a slumber resembling Van Gough’s “Starry Night.”
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| I know it's cliché, but this picture so perfectly captures the eloquence of France. |

Tres charmant!
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